Truck tire fitment basics
1. Diameter gets you in the neighborhood
Start with the comparison calculator to keep the new size within ±3% of stock diameter. That's the necessary condition — not the sufficient one. A 285/70R17 (+3.5% over a 265/70R17) fits many half-tons stock and rubs on others. Same tire, different truck.
2. Check clearance where it actually rubs
Rubbing almost always happens at the front tires, in these spots:
- Front and rear edges of the fender liner at full steering lock — check both directions
- Mud flaps and the front air dam/valance
- Upper control arm and sway bar (inside edge, especially with wider tires on stock wheels)
- Body mount behind the front tire (common on Toyotas going to 33"+)
Check with the suspension compressed, not just sitting in the driveway — a floor jack under one lower control arm simulates articulation. A tire that clears parked can still rub over a speed bump at full lock.
3. Width matters as much as height
Going from 265 to 285 mm wide adds ~0.8" of section width, roughly 0.4" per side. On stock wheels with high positive offset, that extra inner width hits control arms and sway bars first. This is why wheel specs matter:
- Offset (mm): mounting face relative to wheel centerline. Lower/more negative offset pushes the wheel outward — clears suspension, risks fender rub, adds bearing stress.
- Backspacing (in): mounting face to inner rim edge. Same story in inches.
- Rim width: every tire size has an approved rim-width range on the manufacturer's spec sheet. A 285/70R17 is typically approved for 7.5–9.5" wheels.
4. Load rating is non-negotiable
Match or exceed the load index on your door-jamb sticker — never go below it, especially if you tow or haul. Going up a load range (SL → E) is safe but rides firmer. Note that LT tires in the same size often carry more load than P-metric versions; that's usually the right call for a working truck.
5. Know the common fixes (and their costs)
- Minor rub on liner/flap: trim or remove the flap, zip-tie the liner back — free to cheap.
- Body-mount rub: body-mount chop (Toyota trucks) — a few hundred dollars at a shop.
- Needs real height: leveling kit (1–2", ~$200–600 installed) or full lift. Remember a lift fixes vertical clearance, not steering-lock rub.
- Speedometer/ABS: recalibration via programmer or dealer flash for changes beyond ~3%.
Fitment checklist before you order
- Diameter within ±3% of stock (check with the calculator)
- Load index ≥ door-jamb sticker
- Size within the wheel's approved rim-width range
- Clearance checked at full lock, both directions, suspension compressed
- TPMS sensors compatible or budgeted (new wheels need them)
- Spare tire plan — a 35" spare doesn't fit in a 32" spare location